Swash processes and their role on sediment transport on reef fronted shores
Hydrodynamics, wave runup and overtopping were studied on reef fronted beaches, based on physical modelling over an ideal fringing reef profile (scaled 1:64) with different wave climates and reef flat dimensions. Results were compared with formulations developed on open coasts for overtopping and runup, by using the data obtained in the beach toe. The results showed that previous formulations are useful to characterize both parameters on reef fronted shores using the appropriate coordinates and water level.
Future work will be focusing on upscaling the physical model using the wave flume as the reef flat with a sandy beach. Wave climates will include the low frequency oscillations that dominates the reef flat. The sediment transport data will be analysed on this scale and then it will be compared with existing parametric models on open sandy coasts.
About Confirmation Seminars
The purpose of the confirmation milestone is to ensure that the candidate receives appropriate feedback in relation to the viability and progress of the thesis project and that the resources required to complete the program of research within the recommended timeframe are available. It is also an opportunity to ensure that the candidate has demonstrated the capacity and capability to successfully complete the thesis in a timely manner.